Zuit began by making only bespoke suits for women. During this process, we learned a ton from each customer’s experience. We learned there is no average size of a woman and that each bespoke suit is a piece of art. You can see several of these suits on our Lookbook page. We are now excited to use what we learned from bespoke suiting to create a Ready To Wear line. The below details are elements we believe are important to the construction of a quality, long-lasting women’s suit.
One of the key elements missing in women’s suits is canvassing. What we see in stores is either nothing going on between the wool and lining or a fused interlining, which means the pieces are glued together. Women’s suits are made this way because it is cheaper, but the quality is lower because the glue does not allow for movement between the interlining and outer wool. The fabric and interlining, also typically lower in quality, stretch out and the glue degrades over time (whenever it is pressed or dry cleaned). This is one of the reasons why many women’s suits look thin or floppy. The higher quality construction technique, adopted by Zuit, is to stitch (not glue) a floating canvas. This is the technique used on suits in a $4000 suit on Savile Row. It allows the interlining to move or “float” with the wool and your body. The way the jacket drapes over your body actually improves over time.
We consider the above elements the foundation to America’s best women’s suit. The quality of fabric is equally as important. For this reason, we selected wool traceable to one of the last Australian Merino wool farms. The wool is then woven in one of Italy’s oldest mills 70 miles west of Milan in the Biella region. They are renown for beautiful wool with bi-stretch elasticity, perfect for a woman’s shape. The mill is also one of the most environmentally friendly manufacturers, producing its own energy with solar panels and hydro turbines.
For our classic suits we selected bi-stretch lightweight wool that can be worn year-round. Wool is a natural stretch and ability to keep you cool in the summer and retain heat in the winter. For the go-getters, we selected performance wool which means it is water-repellent, anti-odor, stain-resistant and UV protecting.
For the inside of our jackets we offer both prints and solids. For floral prints, we use printed silk. For solids and geometric prints we use Italian cupro. Cupro (often referred to as Bemberg, a brand name of cupro) is the standard in men’s suit linings because it is breathable, light, durable and silky to touch.